Exploring Bohri Mohallah

exploring

bohri mohallah

So lets take a walk to a street,

Hidden in the heart of the city, where history simmers in rich gravies and tradition is served on a silver thali—welcome to Bohri Mohallah, a food lover’s time machine with a side of nostalgia.

And yes it is that time of the year when food stall and restaurant owners move their kitchens from the back of their restaurants to front of them. They decorate the streets with their live kitchens, The food joints in bohri Mohallah don’t just serve dishes—they serve an experience. The air is thick with the tantalizing aroma of sizzling kebabs, buttery naans, and fragrant nihari, each whiff a delicious “bite” of the atmosphere. It’s a feast for the senses, where every corner is well-“seasoned” with the essence of culinary tradition

How to reach this place:

What I did was get off at sandhrust road railway station and take a cab till tawakkal sweets (which is the starting point of the street). Also you can directly take a cab, or if you’re feeling fancy, a magic carpet, maybe even teleportation if science finally catches up with your cravings. Either way, once you get a whiff of the food, your stomach will do the navigating.

I had only heard tales of this gastronomic wonderland during Ramadan, but this year, being in Mumbai, I decided to see for myself what the hype was all about. Consider this blog your guide if you ever find yourself craving an unforgettable food adventure in Bohri Mohallah.

So first starting our walk we go to

Haji tikka- the tikka corner

Here i had the mutton seekh kebabs which were actually good super soft and had the perfect amount of fat dripping from it. The chicken tikka and kheeri are also worth trying.

Next up we went to

Surti 12 handi

which is just opposite to haji tikka.
This place is almost more than 70 years old but still standing young in the heart of this mohallah. As the name says these guys prepare nihari in 12 different handis with each handi having a nahari made up of different cut of the meat eg. Paya, nalli and many more.
I went for the Nalli Nihari, served with khamiri roti. The gravy was rich and velvety, with a generous portion of marrow melting into every bite. Easily one of the best nihari I’ve had—an absolute must-try.

Next we go to

Shabbir's TAWAKKAL SWEETS

This place is very close to my heart as i have been having its sweet treats since i was a child. Any bohri who used to go to mumbai would return with a box from tawakkal.
During Ramadan, the shop undergoes a transformation—it’s no longer just about sweets but also about Bohri and Mughlai delicacies served fresh and sizzling from their live kitchen. Here’s what we had:

Savory;
1. Chicken cheese roll
2. The infamous baida roti
3. Kaleji and gurda with butter naan

Desserts;
Start with Malpua, but eat it very cautiously cuz when you do, you really start questioning your life decisions as to why you didn’t come here sooner.

And of course i took a box of Malai khaja-the crispy flaky pastry filled with rich, creamy malai, lightly soaked in sugar syrup for a perfect balance of crunch and sweetness with me. It is a dessert that you hide from your siblings unless you want it to disappear in seconds.

Next up, we made a beeline for

TAJ ICE CREAM

a place that’s been churning out ice creams since long before we were even born. And trust me, when you visit, you’ll know they’ve mastered the art. Their hand-churned sancha ice creams come in flavors ranging from fresh fruits to rich chocolates, each one a creamy testament to tradition. Only when you taste it will you truly understand the difference between mass-produced ice cream and one made with patience, passion, and love.

We tried their Guava, Muskmelon, and Choco Chip flavors, and all I can say is—there’s a reason this place has been standing strong, scooping happiness day in and day out.

But before we called it a night, there was one last must-try:

Chana Bateta from bohri mohalla’s Chana bateta wallah
They serve a street-side legend where chickpeas and potatoes take a bold, tangy, and slightly sweet ride with tamarind, jaggery, and a medley of spices. One bite, and you’re hooked!

Some places serve food, and some serve history on a plate. This journey was a reminder that the best flavors are the ones that carry a legacy. And this night? Was memorable enough for me to write a blog on it.